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This 2015 disgorgement @domainejacquesselosse V.O. This 2015 disgorgement @domainejacquesselosse V.O. was a real belter, and a vivid reminder of what makes Selosse so special. Anselme’s emphasis on harvesting physiologically ripe fruit is on full display, as are his low yields and fastidious viticulture. Aromas of dried fruit, bruised apple, macadamia, hazelnut and honeyed orange burst from the glass. On the palate, the wines secondary and tertiary aromatic array belies its vivid profile, defined by refreshing, lively acids and expansive flavours of spice, beeswax and citrus rind. The finish is long, sapid and vinous, bringing into focus Anselme’s belief in producing quality base wine first. V.O. (version originale) is a three-vintage blend of Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant and Oger; V.O. contains a higher portion of Avize fruit than Initial and is generally also sourced from (mostly) poorer soils on steeper, higher slopes. The base wines are all fermented in wood (plus some terracotta since 2015) and juice goes straight from press to barrel retaining almost all of its solids. Anselme uses indigenous yeasts culled from his own vineyards, eschews malolactic and keeps dosage low. Further, V.O. spends more time on the lees than Initial(c. 42 months), and receives a smaller dosage—sometimes none at all. It is typically released around six years after the most recent harvest in the blend. As I begin drafting a book proposal, moments like these with such distinct, singular wines shared in great company provide ample inspiration. Thanks Ivan (@domainebelargus ) for such kind hospitality and a wonderful few days in Paris and Anjou. #growerchampagne #selosse #champagne
Since Maria Teresa tipped me off, visiting @simo.f Since Maria Teresa tipped me off, visiting @simo.fiorino and @martinafiorino at @brunagrimaldi_gb has fast become one of my most anticipated tastings. These two astute, enterprising siblings recently took the helm from their parents (Bruna and Franco) at their family winery in Grinzane Cavour—Simone manages the vineyards and winery, while his sister runs all things business.  Before 1989, Bruna’s father bottled wine infrequently. Since Bruna and Franco joined the cantina production has been consistent, and wine has been bottled under the ‘Bruna Grimaldi’ label since 1999. In 2015, Simone graduated from the Alba wine school, having also worked in the cantina since 2013. And, in 2018, Martina joined her brother having worked as a Wine Buyer in London. Today, wines are vinified in a mix of stainless-steel and cement vats, and malo generally happens shortly after the alcoholic fermentation. From 2008, the family also introduced submerged cap by inserting a metal grid in the top of their vats. After fermentation, wines were originally aged mostly in tonneaux. Since 2014, a new barrel room provides more space to invest in larger ageing vessels, including 16hl, 21hl and 30hl botti, as well as new 500/700litre tonneaux. Today, Baroli are also aged in two 50hl truncated wooden vats and a huge 100hl botti. These investments are paying dividends in wine quality.  The family own various prized plots distributed broadly within the Barolo zone, including Borzone, Raviole, Badarina, Bricco Ambrogio, Roere di Santa Maria, and some plots in the comune of Diano d’Alba that make up most of their Nebbiolo d’Alba. Since vintage 2014, they have farmed these vineyards organically, but this simple label belies Simone’s deciduous viticulture.  What‘s most impressive at Bruna Grimaldi is the harmonious passage of generations. Simone and Martina are deeply respectful, but similarly unafraid of change. And, whilst there have been no ‘revolutionary’ changes, an abundance of small, careful refinements compound, accounting for continuing advancements in wine quality. I’m very excited to see this estate go from strength to strength. #barolo #nebbiolo #brunagrimaldi
My 2019 Barolo vintage report is now available via My 2019 Barolo vintage report is now available via the link in my bio. I'm not the first writer to comment on 2019, but I believe that my detailed analysis will offer readers a distinct, personal and technical insight into what is an accomplished vintage, and the flourishing of an extremely exciting era for Langhe. Broadly, 2019 beckons welcome acclaim and widespread success in Barolo, marking the first triumph in a forthcoming tri-vintage three-peat. Broadly hailed as a ‘classic vintage’, 2019 confounds the nervous anticipations of visitors and locals scorched in summer heatwaves or pelted by September hail, amidst what was an undeniably modern vintage. Subsequently, two fascinating takeaways define the vintage. The first, that classic wines were made in a distinctly modern vintage. The second, that 2019 marks the proximate blossoming of a remarkably enterprising epoch, defined by courage, audacity and commercial savvy. Much more on all this in my full article. #2019barolo #barolo #nebbiolo
It was great to finally visit Giuseppe Rinaldi ear It was great to finally visit Giuseppe Rinaldi earlier this year, and to taste (from barrel and recent release) and talk with the effervescent @carlotta_rinaldi, who now manages the family business with her equally astute sister, Marta. Together, the Rinaldi sisters are at the heart of what I like to call a ‘neo-traditional revolution’ in Langhe, whereby traditional/premodern methods are being reinvigorated with a modern sensibility. Carlotta and I covered a variety of interesting topics during my visit, particularly on viticulture, upon which there aren’t many locals with a more progressive, enlightening and informed perspective. Great care is taken at Rinaldi to promote an optimal environment for fruit to thrive and ripen, so much so that Carlotta now considers, plot by plot and year by year, whether to leave cuttings in the vineyard (after pruning) depending on whether they might be a net drain on various desirable aspects (nitrogen etc.). A cursory glance in any of their vineyards will reveal the outcome of such detailed consideration. Similarly, the sisters are respectful in the winery, but are equally unafraid of change. Abundant and increasing precision is the most obvious advancement. Baroli are vinified separately in tine (hence Tre Tine, for anybody still guessing), except where yields determine otherwise. There’s no submerged cap, pumpovers happen from day two and plenty of air is encouraged. After alcoholic fermentation is complete, punchdowns begin. Maceration generally last c. 20-22 days and wines are racked per taste, followed by a basket press before everything is taken to barrel. Since 2011, time in botti is shorter (in part due to changing berry composition), and the wines are better for it. This is obviously not breaking news, but anybody remotely interested in fine wine should pay due attention to what’s happening at Rinaldi today, not only the estate’s existing notoriety. #barolo #giusepperinaldi #nebbiolo
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